The Candlewood Cardi is one of the most worn hand-knit sweaters that I’ve designed. Read about my inspiration for this Free Cardigan Knitting Pattern, how the mosaic design is very beginner-friendly, and how it makes the perfect mommy-and-me sweater! Or scroll down for the entire free pattern.
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Knitting Cardigan Inspiration
Mosaic knitting is one of my favorite ways to knit color work. When designing this cardigan I knew I wanted to add some color work around the yoke, however, I had never steeked before and so doing color work in the round wasn’t going to work. In comes mosaic knitting to the rescue! The special thing with mosaic knitting is you only use one color for each row. This means you can knit flat back and forth and don’t need to knit in the round.
The second thing I wanted when designing this cardigan knitting pattern was to make it available for all sizes. I love a good mommy and me knitting pattern and wanted to make one for my 2-year-old at the time so we could match.
I set off to design a cozy mosaic knit cardigan that would look good on both adults and kids.
Yarn Used
When choosing yarn I wanted something that had great stitch definition to show off the colorwork section. Typically a natural fiber yarn like wool will make colorwork pop. I also chose a worsted weight yarn as I wanted my cardigan to be cozy but not too warm. Sometimes bulky weight yarns can get too hot for me to wear everyday.
With these qualifications in mind, I chose Kelbourne Woolens Germantown yarn. This is 100%, American Wool. I originally purchased it from Knit Picks, however, they have stopped carrying this yarn line. My Candlewood Cardi pattern is still available on their website and with it, they recommend Swish Worsted which is 100% superwash.
I think Swish Worsted could be a fine yarn to use, however, I’m not a huge super wash fan. It typically tends to grow in length and stretch out after blocking and wearing. This is fine for blankets, scarves, or items that you don’t mind stretching. For sweaters, I prefer a non-superwash wool.
My first pick would be High Desert as it’s 100% American Wool similar to Germantown. This is a new line for Knit Picks so the colors are limited. It’s also a bit more expensive. My second pick would be Wool of the Andes Worsted. This yarn line is much more cost-effective and has a wide range of colors. It’s 100% Peruvian Highland Wool and so has all the qualities I love in wool.
Cardigan Knitting Pattern Construction
This pattern is knit seamlessly from the top down. First, you cast on the neckband. Then for adult sizes, short-rows are worked in order to give it a great fit through the chest. Next, the yoke section is knit flat back and forth while incorporating the mosaic chart. Increases are made throughout the yoke for the shoulders and bust. Once the yoke is knit the sleeves are put on hold and the rest of the body is knit flat. Then, the sleeves are picked up and knit. Finally, the cardigan is finished with a front band by picking up stitches along each opening.
The result is a cozy cardigan with a pop of fun color and nupps details.
Want to Print this pattern?
If you prefer a printed pattern instead of looking at a screen while you knit, then the Candlewood Cardi PDF is for you! It’s ad-free and perfectly formatted for printing or viewing on a tablet or phone.
More Free Knitting Patterns
Candlewood Cardi – Free Mosaic Cardigan Knitting Pattern
- Purchase the ad-free, printable PDF on Etsy here.
- Save this pattern to Ravelry here.
- Pin it for later here.
Description
The Candlewood Cardi is a cozy loose-fitting cardigan that features pops of nupps and a bold mosaic design. Throw it on over a t-shirt and jeans for an elevated casual look. Mix and match yarn colors and sizes to make coordinating cardigans for the whole family!
Choosing a size
This cardigan is intended to be loose and comfy for adult sizes and less loose for babies and youth. To choose
the best adult size, measure your full bust, and then add 9″/23cm. Find the finished chest circumference that is closest to that number and knit that size. If you prefer a slightly more fitted sweater, choose the size a step down from that. For babies and kids choose the closest to the intended bust size.
Nupps
The small bobbles above and below the colorwork are called Nupps. Some smaller sizes will not include nupps on the upper section of the cardigan due to the shorter length of the yoke. This is also beneficial as most 0-6 mo old babies can’t sit up and therefore won’t be laying on a bumpy bobble/nupp.
Helpful Videos
- Twisted German Cast On Video Tutorial
- Short Rows Wrap + Turn Method Video Tutorial
- Creating Nupps using a Crochet Hook Video Tutorial
- Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off Video Tutorial
Supplies
yarn
Worsted Weight in 3 Colors
- Color A (Main Color)
- Color B (Contrast Color 1)
- Color C (Contrast Color 3)
Suggested Yarn
yardage
Yardage listed is for Knit Picks – Kelbourne Germantown. Each skein is 220yards / 100 grams.
Color A: 1 (1, 1, 2, 3, 3, 4) [4, 4, 5, 5] {6, 6, 6} Skeins
Color B: 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1) [1, 1, 2, 2] {2, 2, 2} Skeins
Color C: 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1) [1, 1, 1, 1] {1, 1, 1} Skeins
NOTE: Yardage/meterage is an estimate and may change based on your yarn selected personal gauge, or any modifications you make.
Needles
- Main Fabric: US 7/4.5 mm – 32″/80cm to 40″/100cm circular and/or preferred needles for small circumference knitting (Magic Loop or DPNs).
- Ribbing: US 6/4.0 mm – 32″/80cm to 40″/100cm circular and/or preferred needles for small circumference knitting.
- These are my favorite interchangeable needles that I personally use! I highly recommend them for projects like these as you can easily switch from one needle to the next to make sure you get the correct gauge for both the ribbing and the main fabric. You also don’t run the risk of not having the right needle on hand!
Notions
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Size G-6/4 mm crochet hook
- Waste yarn or stitch holders
- Stitch marker
Sizes and Measurements
Sizes: 0-6 mo(6-12 mo, 1-2 yrs, 2-4 yrs, 4-6 yrs, 6-8 yrs, 8-10 yrs) [XS, S, M, L] {XL, 2XL, 3XL}
Finished Chest Circumference in inches: 20 (21.5, 23.5, 25, 28, 32, 34) [39, 43, 47, 51] {55, 59, 63}
Measurements given are for the finished garment. See notes for help picking your size. Purchase the ad-free PDF for additional schematics and size chart.
The sample pictured is a size Small on a model with a 34″ bust [86cm] worn with 9″ [23 cm] of positive ease.
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Gauge
16 sts & 24 rounds = 4”/10 cm
Measured after blocking over stockinette stitch.
Abbreviations + Glossary (US Terms):
*..* – Repeat
CO – Cast on
dec – Decrease(d/s)
inc – Increase(d/s)
k – Knit
k2tog – Knit 2 stitches together as one [1 st dec]
m1L – Make one left-leaning
N – Nupp; Using a crochet hook, insert hook knitwise into stitch and pull through one loop, *YO onto hook, insert hook back into the stitch, and pull through one loop; repeat from * twice more (7 strands on hook). Wrap yarn around hook and pull it through all 7 sts to complete nupp. 1 st remains, pass it to the RHN. See pg 2 for a video tutorial.
p – Purl
pm – Place marker
Rep – Repeat
RS – Right Side
ssk – Slip 2 stitches knit-wise, then knit them together thru the back loops [1 st dec]
st/s – Stitch/es
W&T – Wrap and turn: Knit Row (Purl Row) Slip next stitch to right-hand needle, pass yarn from back (front) to front (back), slip stitch back to left-hand needle. Turn to work other side, passing yarn to front (back) of work. See pg 2 for video a tutorial.
WS – Wrong Side
Permissions + Copywrite:
All rights reserved. This pattern and photos are property of Whimsy North and may not be altered, shared, or sold. You’re welcome to sell finished products made with this pattern but please credit me: Margaret Stauffacher of Whimsy North and link back to this post.
Directions:
YOKE
Using Color A and large needles, CO 34 (36, 38, 40, 40, 42, 48) [56, 60, 64, 68] {72, 76, 80} sts using the German Twisted Cast On. DO NOT join to work in the round.
Set-up Row: P.
Beginning with a knit row, work 0 (0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0) [0, 0, 2, 4] {6, 10, 10} more rows in stockinette st.
SHORT ROWS [Adult sizes only]
For sizes 0-6 mo through 8-10 yrs, skip to Row 9 (inc row).
Short Row 1 (RS): K [32, 36, 39, 43] {46, 49, 52}, W&T.
Short Row 2 (WS): P [9, 10, 12, 14] {16, 18, 20}, W&T.
Short Row 3: K to previously wrapped st, resolve it by knitting the st together with its wrap, k3, W&T.
Short Row 4: P to previously wrapped st, resolve it by purling the st together with its wrap, p3, W&T.
Repeat [Short Rows 3 & 4] once more. Short Row 7: K across, resolving the wrapped st as it is encountered.
Short Row 8: P across, resolving the wrapped st as it is encountered.
YOKE CONT. [All Sizes]
Row 9 (YOKE INC #1):
*K1, m1L; Rep from * to last st, k1.
33 (35, 37, 39, 39, 41, 47) [55, 59, 63, 67] {71, 75, 79} sts inc. 67 (71, 75, 79, 79, 83, 95) [111, 119, 127, 135] {143, 151, 159} total sts
Row 10: P
Row 11: For 0-6 mo (6-12 mo, 1-2 yrs, 2 – 4 yrs,
4-6 yrs) sizes – skip to Row 13. All other sizes: Join Color B. Do not break color A. Using color B, k all sts.
Row 12: P3, *N, p3; Rep from * to end of row. Do not break Color B.
Row 13: Using color A, k all sts. Row 14: Purl. Break color A. Row 15 (YOKE INC #2):
Join Color C. Using color C:
SIZE 0-6 MO: K3, *k4, m1L; Rep to end of row.
SIZE 6-12 MO: K5, *k2, m1L; Rep from * 13 more times, k5, *k2, m1L; Rep from * Rep from * to last 5 sts, k5.
SIZE 1-2 YR: K3, *k3, m1L; Rep from * to end of row.
SIZE 2-4 YR: K4, *k2, m1L; Rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.
SIZE 4-6 YR: K9, *k1, m1L; Rep from * 25 more times, k9, *k1, m1L; Rep from * to last 9 sts, k9.
SIZE 6-8 YR: *K1, m1L; Rep from * 6 more times, *k2, m1L; Rep from * to last 6 sts, *m1L, k1; Rep to end of row.
SIZE 8-10 YR: K15, *k1, m1L; Rep from * 25 more times, k14, *k1, m1L; Rep from * to last 15 sts, k15.
SIZE XS: K4, *k2, m1L; Rep from * to last 3 sts, k3. SIZE S: K1, m1L, *k2, m1L; Rep from * to last st.
SIZE M: *K1, m1L; Rep from * 8 more times, *k2, m1L; Rep from * to end.
SIZE L: K5, *k1, m1L; Rep from * 25 more times, *k2, m1L; Rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.
SIZE XL: K7, *k2, m1L; Rep from * to end of row.
SIZE 2XL: K1, m1L, *k2, m1L; Rep from * to end of row.
SIZE 3XL: *K1, m1L; Rep from * 8 more times, *k2, m1L; Rep from * to end of row.
16 (28, 24, 36, 52, 48, 52) [52, 60, 68, 76] {68, 76, 84} sts inc. 83 (99, 99, 115, 131, 131, 147) [163, 179, 195, 211] {211, 227, 243} sts total.
Row 16: P.
MOSAIC DESIGN
Begin mosaic design using only colors B + C: If you prefer to work from a chart it’s included in the low-cost PDF available on Etsy. In the first row, you will be placing stitch markers between each pattern repeat to help keep you on track when knitting. Every two rows, you will switch between using Color B and C. The color being used is noted at the beginning of each row.
Row 17 B: Using Color B, k1, pm, *k16, pm; Rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 18 B: Purl.
Row 19 C: K1, *k1, sl1, k1, sl2, k7, sl2, k1, sl1; Rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 20 C: P2, *sl1, p1, sl2, p7, sl2, p1, sl1, p1; Rep from * to last st, p1.
Row 21 B: K1, *k5, sl1, k5, sl1, k4; Rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 22 B: P2, *p4, sl1, p5, sl1, p5; Rep from * to last st, p1.
Row 23 C: K1, *sl1, k5, sl1, k9; Rep from * to last 2 sts, sl1, k1.
Row 24 C: P1, sl1, *p9, sl1, p5, sl1; Rep from * to last st, p1.
Row 25 B: K1, *k1, sl1, k3, sl1, k1, sl1, k7, sl1; Rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 26 B: P2, *sl1, p7, sl1, p1, sl1, p3, sl1, p1; Rep from * to last st, p1.
Row 27 C: K1, *sl1, k1, sl1, k3, sl1, k7, sl1, k1; Rep from * to last 2 sts, sl1, k1.
Row 28 C: P1, sl1, *p1, sl1, p7, sl1, p3, sl1, p1, sl1; Rep from * to last st, p1.
Row 29 B: K1,*k1, sl1; Rep to from * to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 30 B: P2, *sl1, p1; Rep from * to last st, p1. Row 31 C: K1, *k2, sl1, k3, sl1, k1, sl1, k1, sl1, k5; Rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 32 C: P2, *p5, sl1, p1, sl1, p1, sl1, p3, sl1, p2; Rep from * to last st, p1.
Row 33 B: K1, *k1, sl1, k1, sl1, k3, sl1, k1, sl1, k6; Rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 34 B: P2, *p6, sl1, p1, sl1, p3, sl1, p1, sl1, p1; Rep from * to last st, p1.
Row 35 C: K1, *k2, sl1, k5, sl1, k7; Rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 36 C: P2, *p7, sl1, p5, sl1, p2; Rep from * to last st, p1.
Row 37 B: K1, *k3, sl1, k9, sl1, k2; Rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 38 B: P2, *p2, sl1, p9, sl1, p3; Rep from * to last st, p1.
Row 39 C: K1, *k4, sl2, k1, sl1, k1, sl1, k1, sl2, k3; Rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 40 C: P2, *p3, sl2, p1, sl1, p1, sl1, p1, sl2, p4; Rep from * to last st, p1.
Row 41 B: K all sts, removing markers as you come to them.
Row 42 B: P.
YOKE CONT.
Row 43 (YOKE INC #3): Using color C
SIZE 0-6 MO: K2, m1L, *k3, m1L; Rep from * to end of row.
SIZE 6-12 MO: K3, *k4, m1L; Rep from * to end of row.
SIZE 1-2 YR: K8, *k3, m1L; Rep from * to last 7 sts, k7.
SIZE 2-4 YR: K3, *k7, m1L; Rep from * to end of row.
SIZE 4-6 YR: K3, *k8, m1L; Rep from * to end of row.
SIZE 6-8 YR: K10, *k4, m1L; Rep from * to last 9 sts, k9.
SIZE 8-10 YR: K7, *k5, m1L; Rep from * to end of row.
SIZE XS: K10, *k4, m1L; Rep from * to last 9 sts, k9.
SIZE S: K3, *k4, m1L; Rep from * to end of row. SIZE M: K1, *k2, m1L; Rep from * 6 more times,
*k4, m1L; Rep from * to end of row.
SIZE L: K1, *K1, m1L; Rep from * 9 more times, *k4, m1L; Rep from * to end of row.
SIZE XL: K5, *k1, m1L; Rep from * 10 more times, *k3, m1L; Rep from * to end of row.
SIZE 2XL: K9, *k1, m1L; Rep from * 22 more times, *k3, m1L; Rep from * to end of row.
SIZE 3XL: K11, *k1, m1L; Rep from * 21 more times, * k3, m1L; Rep from * to end of row
28 (24, 28, 16, 16, 28, 28) [36, 44, 52, 60] {76, 88, 92} sts inc. 111 (123, 127, 131, 147, 159, 175) [199, 223, 247, 271] {287, 315, 335}
Row 44: P. Break color C.
Row 45: (For 0-6 mo + 6-12 mo sizes, skip to row 48) All other sizes, join color A. Using color A, k all sts.
Row 46: Purl
Row 47: (For 1-2 yrs, 2-4 yrs, sizes – skip to Row 49) All other sizes: Using color B, k all sts.
Row 48: P3, *N, p3; Rep from * to end of row. Break color B.
Row 49 (INC) All sizes: Using color A, k1, m1L, k to end of row. [1 st inc]
112 (124, 128, 132, 148, 160, 176) [200, 224, 248, 272] {288, 316, 336} sts total.
Row 50: P.
Beginning with a knit row, work 0 (0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0) [0, 0, 2, 4] {6, 8, 8} more rows in stockinette st.
SEPARATE BODY + SLEEVES
K16 (15, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24) [29, 33, 37, 41] {44, 48, 51} sts for front left panel, place the next 24 (26, 26, 26, 28, 30, 34) [36, 40, 44, 48] {50, 56, 60} sts on hold for left sleeve, CO 4 (4, 4, 6, 6, 6, 6) [8, 8, 8, 8] {10, 10, 12} sts using backwards loop method, k32 (42, 44, 44, 52, 56, 60) [70, 78, 86, 94] {100, 108, 114} back sts, place next 24 (26, 26, 26, 28, 30, 34) [36, 40, 44, 48] {50, 56, 60} sts on hold for right sleeve, CO 4 (4, 4, 6, 6, 6, 6) [8, 8, 8, 8] {10, 10, 12} sts using backwards loop method, k to end of row.
24 (26, 26, 26, 28, 30, 34) [36, 40, 44, 48] {50, 56, 60} sts on hold per sleeve
72 (80, 84, 92, 104, 112, 120) [144, 160, 176, 192] {208, 224, 240} total body sts.
BODY
Beginning with a purl row, work in stockinette st until body measures 2.5 (2.5, 2.5, 3.5, 5.5, 7, 8) [8.5, 8.5, 8.5, 8.5] {8.5, 8.5, 8.5} inches from separation of sleeves & body, ending with a WS (purl) row.
Next Row (DEC): Join color B. Using color B, k1, k2tog, k to end of row.
Next Row: P3, *N, p3; Rep from * to end or row. Break color B.
Next Row (DEC) : Using color A, *K1, k2tog; Rep from * 1 (1, 4, 4, 1, 1, 1) [1, 1, 1, 1] {1, 1, 1} more times, k to 3 sts before end of row, k2tog, k1. 3 (3, 6, 6, 3, 3, 3) [3, 3, 3, 3] {3, 3, 3} sts dec. 68 (76, 76, 84 , 100, 108, 116) [140, 156, 172, 188] {204, 220, 236} total sts.
Next Row: P.
BOTTOM HEM
Change to smaller needles.
Row 1 (RS): K4, *p4, k4; Rep from * to end of row Row 2 (WS): P4, *k4, p4; Rep from * to end of row. Continue in established 4×4 ribbing until the hem measures 2.5 (2.5, 3, 3, 3, 3.5, 3.5) [4, 4, 4, 4] {4, 4, 4} inches.
Bind off in pattern using larger needles.
SLEEVES (Same for both)
Place the 24 (26, 26, 26, 28, 30, 34) [36, 40, 44, 48] {50, 56, 60} held sleeves sts onto larger needle or your preferred method of small circumference knitting (either Magic Loop or DPNs). Starting at middle of underarm, pick up and k 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3) [4, 4, 4, 4] {5, 5, 6} sts, k across the live sleeve sts, pick up and k 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3) [4, 4, 4, 4] {5, 5, 6} sts, PM and join for working in the round.
28 (30, 30, 32, 34, 36, 40) [44, 48, 52, 56] {60, 66, 72} sts.
Round 1 (DEC): K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. [2 sts dec]
Repeat Decrease Round 1 every 14 (16, 14, 18, 18, 17, 17) [15, 12, 8, 8] {7, 6, 5}th round, 1 (1, 2, 1, 2, 3, 3) [5, 7, 9, 9] {11, 12, 15} more times.
4 (6, 2, 4, 4, 8, 8) [ 12, 16, 20, 20] {24, 28, 32} sts dec; 24 (24, 28, 28, 30, 28, 32) [32, 32, 32, 36] {36, 38, 40} sts remain.
Work even in Stockinette stitch until sleeve measures 6 (6.5, 7, 7.5, 10, 12, 13) [17, 17, 17, 17] {17, 17, 17} inches from underarm.
CUFF
Change to smaller needle.
Round 1: *K2, p2; Rep from * to end of round. Continue in established 2×2 ribbing until cuff measures 2.5 (2.5, 3, 3, 3.5, 3.5, 3.5) [4, 4, 4, 4] {4, 4, 4} inches.
Bind off in pattern using larger needle.
Repeat for second sleeve.
COLLAR
Using smaller needle with WS facing, pick up and k 34 (36, 38, 40, 40, 42, 48) [56, 60, 64, 68] {72, 76, 80} sts around the cast on edge of the neck. DO NOT join to work in the round.
Row 1 (RS): K1 (3, 1, 3, 3, 1, 3) [3, 3, 3, 3] {3, 3, 3}, *p2, k2; Rep from * to 1 st before end of row, k1 Row 2 (WS): P1, *k2, p2; Rep from * to 1 (3, 1, 3, 3, 1, 3) [3, 3, 3, 3] {3, 3, 3} sts before end of row, p1 (3, 1, 3, 3, 1, 3) [3, 3, 3, 3] {3, 3, 3} sts.
Continue in established ribbing until collar measures 1 (1, 1, 1, 1.5, 1.5, 1.5) [1.5, 1.5, 1.5, 1.5] {1.5, 1.5, 1.5} inches.
Bind off in pattern using larger needles.
BANDS
Using smaller needles with RS facing and beginning at the hem edge of the right front band, pick up and k 2 sts for every 3 along the edge, so that you end with a total stitch count that is a multiple of 8 + 4. For example, size S 84 sts were picked up.
Row 1 (WS): P4, *k4, p4; Rep from * to end of row.
Row 2 (RS): K4, *p4, k4; Rep from * to end of row.
Continue in established ribbing for 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1.5) [1.5, 1.5, 1.5, 1.5] {1.5, 1.5, 1.5} inches ending with a RS row. Bind off on the WS using Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off – K1, bring yarn forward over the back of your needle, k the next st. You now have a k st, a yo and another k st on your right needle. Pass the first k st and the yo over the 2nd k st. Bring the yarn back over the top of the needle and k another stitch. Pass the previous k st and yo over that st. Continue this way until only one st is left on the needle. Break yarn leaving a 5″ tail, pull through your last live st and pull tight to close it.
Repeat for Left Front band, beginning to pick up stitches at the collar edge with RS facing.
FINISHING
Weave in ends and sew up any holes near underarms if necessary. Wet block your finished sweater according to the schematics on page 10. Once dry, fold-up cuffs on sleeves.
Happy knitting! Don’t forget to share your projects on Instagram and tag #candlewoodcard and @whimsynorth so I can share them with my community!
